Tag Archives: Trips

April in Paris

Lost in (Parisian) Details

April in ParisIt was April, I was in Paris and it was better than any song. I watched the winter haze lift and the flowers bloom, I was lost in the details of La Ville-Lumière. Paris gave me rain, crisp breezes and just enough sunshine to cast fun shadows on the wide trottoirs. I went to Paris with a camera, unsure what to capture and waiting for the city to tell me. I didn’t know whether I should experience Paris or just breathe it in; do I  listen to Paris every night or pick up a pen and write? I expected Paris to overwhelm, but it was sweet, serene and healing. It was April, I was in Paris and it was better than any song.

 

Why I’m not in pictures

I take over a thousand of photos when I travel. We’re talking about a two-week trip here, and I’m not even exaggerating. Why shouldn’t I enjoy the benefits of digital photography? It’s cost-effective and allows me to experiment. Eventually (sometimes months or years later), I filter through my photos and delete a couple dozen: the crooked, the blurry, the recurring. And at this point, I get pretty annoyed because I can hardly find five photos of myself. I also hear my mother’s voice asking, “but why aren’t you in ANY pictures?”

That’s an excellent question, mother dearest. I ask myself the same thing and after several trips I have discovered why. It’s because people suck (couldn’t even find a euphemism here). I know I’m slowly but surely turning into a misanthrope but people are unbelievably selfish when it comes to photos.

Ok, I admit that I get overprotective with my camera, like anyone who’s spent thousands on equipment that could break. But grubby fingers and careless hands aside, I do sometimes hand my camera over to people. ”Can you take a photo of me now?” I’d ask, with a hopeful smile on my face. I refrain from adding, “because I’ve taken about two dozen of you so far, and you’ve been posing like Marilyn Monroe all day and you’ve told me seven times that I must send you those pictures. What if I just don’t want to, huh? And could you PLEASE frame it right? It would be nice if you got all of my head in the picture. Not from that angle, doofus.”

Usually people are obliging. They take my camera and hold it up in my direction before announcing, “how do I use this thing?” IT’S JUST A CAMERA – I want to scream. But I don’t. That would be rude. I un-pose and walk over to where they’re standing with my camera like it’s the heaviest thing they’ve ever held. I wish they’d try not to look so bored. Well, I’m sorry if taking a photo of me is wasting precious seconds of your time, but if you do it quickly we can go back to taking photos of you. Because the world and my camera revolve around you.

So after pointing out the view finder, I go back to my spot and try to recapture my pose when allofasudden CLICK CLICK — “Ok, I took it.” Oi! I was not ready! “Can you please take one more?” I ask sweetly. The typical response is, “oh? You want me to take another one? Oh. [Silence] Ok.”

At this point, I’m trying not to yell, “YES. TAKE ANOTHER ONE. TAKE TEN MORE. IT’S NOT COSTING YOU ANYTHING.” With a heavy sigh, they take a couple more photos of me and hand the camera right back. You know, so I can resume my job as their personal, unpaid photographer. Later, I go through my photos and delete most of them. All the photos were taken hurriedly. They’re all unflattering. I pick up my voodoo doll

And that’s why ladies and gentlemen, I’m not in any pictures. Wow I’m out of breath. How are you doing?

London 2010

When I travel with my mother she ONLY takes photos of me. Aha.

1

I adore Lebanon

There are a few places in the world that feel like home to me. When the plane touches the tarmac in these cities, I am not immediately filled with the excitement of exploring a new city but more of a sense of safety and relief. Or even return. The first two are understandable: Kuwait, where I was born, where I belong and where I currently live and then Muscat (Sultanate of Oman), where I spent 11 years of my life.

And then there’s Lebanon. I spent a summer there when I was in high school, with my family. Then I went back a couple of years ago to visit my good friend Lama. That’s it, two trips! But I love that country with a passion. And here is why I love Lebanon so much (in no particular order):

1. The fierce nationalism

Yes, the sense of nationalism has gotten out of hand in Lebanon before, but for the most part it got the country through wars, poverty and civil unrest. I grew up watching my Lebanese friends don their colorful costumes, join hands every Liberation Day and perform the dabke. It was beautiful.
I recently read this blog post which I thought was hilarious. As a Kuwaiti, I can totally relate to the writer’s confusion. Must I applaud everything that is Kuwaiti simply because it’s Kuwaiti? Of course not! But healthy nationalistic pride is rare these days and I find it particularly endearing in my Lebanese friends.
2. The Food
I really shouldn’t have to say more. But if you’ve never been to Lebanon, then I’ll have to tell you that no matter where I eat, I immediately compare it to the freshness and simplicity of a meal in Lebanon. I don’t recall any spectacular international cuisines/restaurants in Lebanon, but why would I eat sushi in Beirut when the local food is marvelous and aplenty. Here’s a picture of one of the many local produce stands that line the mountainous roads.
3. The chaos
Yet there’s some sort of harmony in all the chaos. The roads may be a danger-zone of potholes and the taxi drivers may be suicidal but everything sort of comes together. I’m not sure how! One minute people are hurling insults at each other on an eight-way intersection, the next minute they’re asking each other about the a little café on some side road. I’m not sure how this car got there or how many years it sat on that mound, but it’s kinda charming, non? In a bizarre-only-in-Beirut kinda way.
4. The geography
It’s a Mediterranean country and I have soft-spot for those (my affection is not exactly based on experience but mostly on romantic novels, songs and my overactive imagination). I do love the greenery, the proximity to the sea, the rugged mountains. I love the changing scenery and climate from one part of the country to another.
5. The history
How many civilizations have not left their stamp on this land? The prehistoric settlements in Lebanon date back to 5000 BCE, starting with Byblos and falling under the rule of the Phoenicians, Assyrians, Babylonians and even the Romans. Lebanon was part of the Byzantine Empire before the Arabs took over the Arabian Peninsula and the Dead Sea at around 637 CE.
Here’s a photo of the Sidon Sea Castle, built by the Crusaders in 1228 CE.
This became 'our' station

Getting around Istanbul

By staying in Sultanahmet, I was hoping we would cut down on transportation costs, spend less time in the backseat of a taxi and more time on our feet exploring the city. For the most part, our theory worked. And when we wanted to explore the other side, we would walk over to the nearest tram station, hop on the tram for 2 Turkish liras each and over the Golden Horn on the Galata Bridge to Kabataş (the last station on the line). We then have the option of taking the funicular (a cable car that runs like a metro) to Taksim or the ferry to the islands.

The public transportation system in Istanbul is quite straightforward and most of the touristy sites fall right next to a station. The trams are clean, fairly new and well-maintained. What we didn’t take into account, however, was the Eid Al-Adha holiday crowd. Middle Easterners swamped Istanbul, the European tourists were aplenty, and because of the public holiday, Turks themselves were out and about. The buses and trams were bursting at the seams. The ferries (a very common mean of transportation between the European and Asian side) looked like they were floating by some miracle; people were packed on that boat like sardines. And how I hate sardines…

On the first day of Eid al-Adha (Kurban Bayramı in Turkish), we set out to the famous Istiklal Street. We thought we would spend the day walking around, exploring the area and avoiding the historical and religious sites which I figured would be crowded. We were disappointed to see Istiklal Street practically empty and most of the shops closed.

When it looked like most of the stores weren’t opening, we hailed a taxi and asked him to take us to Forum Mall, Europe’s largest shopping mall. Let me just say that I’ve had several harrowing taxi experiences before, including cabs in New York City, Saudi Arabia and Cairo. The terror I felt that day, as our middle-aged cab driver zoomed around the highways, surpassed all the other experiences. My sister and I held on to dear life as the man put his foot on the accelerator and soared past buildings, between trucks and maneuvered the car on the edge of a mountain. I felt ill and tried to distract myself by taking out the camera to document the ride of my life – if I survived to blog about it, that is. My pictures were mostly blurry.

The ride of death was totally unnecessary, we soon found out, because the mall was closed. The driver neglected to tell us that everything opens at 1:30 pm on the first day of Eid and he insisted on driving us to another mall. He charged us over 100 TL ($56) and dropped off at Istaniye Park Mall, which was also closed until 1:30! We stood in the cold for almost 2 hours until the mall opened. I still haven’t forgiven that taxi driver.

We had one other transportation incident that left me cursing left and right, but other than that we were able to navigate our way around Istanbul safely and without any major problems. The trams and cable cars felt considerably safer than Paris and London, especially for two young women traveling alone.

And finally, the shoes that were made for walkin’. Can you guess which one’s mine?

Istanbul November 2011

Istanbul eats: shawarma

When in Istanbul, one must have shawarma!

Shawarmas are a street food popular all over the Middle East and now Europe. In the Middle East specifically, shawarmas are inexpensive fast-food and are prepared differently across the region. Basically, the meat is stacked vertically on a rotating skewer in the shape of an inverted cone. The shawarma is then slow roasted on all sides (usually using an electric burner, but we saw some charcoal grills used in Istanbul).  The meat is shaved off with a large knife and is then made into a sandwich.

We didn’t get a chance to try döner kebab which is what Turkey is really famous for, but the chicken shawarma was pretty good. A typical shawarma has fries, shaved grilled chicken (or beef or lamb), a little salad and comes in your choice of bread. The second time we got shawarmas (at he same restaurant in Sultanahmet), we asked for condiments. They added a yogurt-based dressing, making the somewhat dry wraps so much better.

Living in the Middle East, I’ve had better shawarma before, the one in Istanbul didn’t exactly blow me away – but maybe that’s because I prefer mine with more condiments and pickles. But no trip to Turkey is complete with shawarma… so if you’re ever in Turkey, scout out potential shawarma joints and pick the one that gets the most traffic. Et bon appétit!

from Istanbul, with love

Vacations are ephemeral. One minute you’re in a new city, making your way from the airport to your hotel. You’re starry-eyed and energetic with the days stretching ahead of you like they would never end. There’s so much you want to see, the sun is a little brighter, the nights are a little longer. But just when you get the hang of the city, just when you know your way around, when you’re settling into the perfect pattern, it all comes to an end. You’re somehow back in your own bedroom and the magic you felt while on vacation evaporated somewhere along the way – probably as you stood in a long line at the airport or sat for hours in a tiny seat trying to find a comfortable niche to rest your head.

Before you know it, you’re back at work or school. You pick up where you left off. You’re enveloped in the busyness of a life that doesn’t allow for long, luxurious breakfasts. You cannot afford to get lost and laugh about it and you certainly don’t strike a conversation with a stranger or buy a silly trinket or two. And when you do get a chance to look at the many photos you captured, you struggle to remember what that building was or why you felt the need to photograph a street sign. Where was that sign anyway? And what were you doing that day? You try to remember but it’s fading fast.

4

Ghost brides and graveyards

Chapel of the Cross

Annandale was a huge Maidson County plantation built in the 1840s. The plantation owner’s daughter, Helen Johnstone, fell in love with the dashing Henry Vick, and their wedding was planned for May 21, 1859, at the Chapel of the Cross. But mere days before the nuptials, Henry was killed in a duel. He was buried at midnight in the churchyard behind the chapel, and the devastated Helen wore her wedding gown to the funeral.

Kirkpatrick from Off the Beaten Path, Mississippi.

It was a damp, dreary day in February and we were in the mood for an adventure. S. drove  us to Madison to meet the bride of Annandale. We found the simple brick church and we made our way over to the building to investigate.

If I recall correctly, the doors were bolted shut and we walked around the building and into the yard.

To those who thought I was making S. up, that’s her on the right! (S. saved me, remember?)

Visitors to Chapel of the Cross often report sightings of a sad woman clad all in white, sitting on a bench near Henry Vick’s grave.

Maybe it was Helen’s day off. We couldn’t spot a woman clad in white – but the moment we stepped out of the car we were swathed in a strange stillness that hung over the churchyard and the nearby lake.

So we explored the area, took pictures and jumped back in the car (well before sunset; it’s illegal to “prowl the cemetery after dark”) but I have to admit that we were a little spooked. I can’t report any strange sightings or noises, but the haunting silence definitely got to us. We were practically whispering to each other!

Got a spine-chilling story for us? Do share!

If you want to read more about the adventures of a Kuwaiti women living in Mississippi click here.